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Northward Bound

Crossing America from West to East

Before my eyes is a wide-angle view of the Atlantic, encompassing the entire view from our balcony on the Outer Banks off the coast of North Carolina. We have settled in here for a few days before we complete the final portion of our road trip back home to Ottawa.

We have walked the shores of the Pacific Ocean at Santa Monica Beach, followed the panoramic coastal drive from San Francisco along the Big Sur route to Los Angeles and enjoyed visiting the towns of Monterey and Santa Barbara along the way. We saw the Walk of Stars, stood inside the Kodak Theatre where the Oscars had taken place just a week earlier and after three days of sight-seeing we left the Hotel California (not as I had imagined although uniquely charming) heading eastward for the first time since we began our the trip!

Eastward bound, we drove into the desert of California to Palm Springs, a stunningly beautiful resort town quite popular with Canadians from the west coast, and where the celebrities of the 40s first made famous. We were fascinated with the barren, arid terrain of the region and enjoyed a day hike in the sweltering heat, up Indian Canyon with its hidden water-fall. This area still manages to grow the largest and sweetest dates in the country – the packages we bought have long disappeared!

We visited antiquities in the dessert of New Mexico, including a sacred Indian site for 800 years then a Spanish mission rebuilt it in 1598, The San Miguel Mission. Never imagined Santa Fe would be so impressively stunning with its unique adobe architecture, leaving an ever-lasting impression for its visitors. In Santa Fe I made my first observation to Allen that it was a place I would love to live.

Then we drove for hours across the Panhandle of Texas, a very desolate experience devoid of life. I often would think and not comprehend how the early settlers managed to surmount these harsh desert conditions. Once we reached the Hill Country of Texas, greenery rolling countryside, vineyards with rivers and lakes appeared. Enjoyed our time in the German settled community of Fredericksberg, where people from Austin and Dallas come to escape the crowds. I am discovering these smaller towns come with the best antique shops that reveal so much about life in earlier times.

We spent three days in Austin, the state capitol and were completely in awe of the Capitol buildings, with its underground wings, and the freedom to roam the floors of power without any security check in today’s world! Austin is a very upbeat, musical city full of quirky, vintage shops and restaurants. Enjoyed a night at the historic Continental Club, where nothing has changes since the 1920s, rickety but oozing with great blues talent. I recall making the same comment, that Austin is a city I’d like to live in too.

Next we drove to another exceptionally beautiful city, San Antonio with its gorgeous River Walk, looks more like our canal in width although hotels, restaurants, shops and cafes line both sides of the promenade. The River Walk is beautifully designed with all its foliage and artistic landscaping as a backdrop. Dining at one of these spots I couldn’t stop myself from thinking of how wonderful it would be to live here!

We then drove to Corpus Christi and stayed in the small beach town of Aransas on the Gulf of Mexico, where the beach is so wide that cars can drive slowly along the shore without affecting the crowds on the beach.

The drive along the coast-line to Louisiana was another 8 hours of steady driving to reach Lafayette. We found a Cajun Restaurant and enjoyed a shrimp Creole dish with the added pleasure of watching the diners up dancing to the Cajun music. Fascinating to visit the museum of the Acadian settlers and to see the French influence in the culture and architecture still gracing the city. We were learning so much about the African slaves, the French and European influences on the music, food and agriculture. The slaves even brought cotton seeds and red pepper seeds hidden in their hair and today these items are a mainstay in our lives. Visiting the Tabasco Hot Pepper Sauce Factory we discovered the true origins of red peppers!

We visited a few plantations along the way, The Nottaway, a typical Gone with the Wind style and now used as a B & B. We enjoyed the less opulent Creole Plantation for its colourful look and the fact it was successfully owned and operated by French women – women were still possessions of men except under French rule.

Our introduction to New Orleans was on Good Friday and one we shall remember vividly. We discovered the City was alive and filled with tourists. Its famous Bourbon Street that evening was brimming with music, crowds of tourists taking in the action with jazz musicians playing on the streets, live concerts pouring out of every club and bar, more typical of a New Year’s Eve celebration!

Fortunately the hotel was in the heart of the French Quarter where we walked endlessly soaking up its beautiful architecture, culture and history. We saw a wedding procession on the street with a long brass marching band leading them along! We lined up to get into “Preservation Hall” for a fabulous jazz performance and one night we went to Fritzel’s for an evening of boisterous ragtime and dixiland jazz.

In Mississippi we began our civil rights history trail starting at the only Black History Museum in the tiny home of it founder who returned to her home town of Donaldsonville to learn about her past and about the history of the slaves. Next in the tiny village of Philadelphia we saw the Church where three civil rights activists in 1964 had been killed for helping Blacks to register to vote.

In Selma, Alabama we walked across the Edmund Pettus Bridge, where on Bloody Sunday in March 1965 law enforcement officers attacked 500 marchers with tear gas and clubs who were protesting the lynching of young blacks, the burning of their churches and for the right to vote. We then visited the Rosa Parks Museum with the very bus Rosa sat on when she was arrested, the Civil Rights Memorial Center and Martin Luther King’s Dexter Church in Montgomery, Alabama.

Then it was a 5 hour drive to Savannah Georgia for a few days. It is everything the tourist books say and is a shining example of having city planners with vision back in the early 1800s. There are some 24 city squares of gardens and monuments in the historical quarter creating a streetcape of magnificent scenery with the majestic homes showcasing these small parks throughout the core of the city.

Charleston, South Carolina, just an hour’s drive north of Savannah is a most impressive and beautiful city where we enjoyed walking in the Battery area on the shores of the Atlantic where miles of magnificent residences line the city streets. Again I am thinking of how wonderful it would be to live here! Really enjoy taking tours of these grand old residences, some even had ball rooms to properly entertain their guests!

We are now reaching the last lap of our trip, by resting at a lovely hotel on an island off the coast of North Carolina. Our last official visit was to the Wright Brothers Museum. In 1903 the Wright Brothers launched the world’s first flying machine here on the Outer Banks.

After exploring the southern states the way we have I can honestly say that the people have been so hospitable and their charm, so endearing. The great cities of the South have been so appealing, that while I may be born a northern from Canada a part of me will always melt at any mention of these southern destinations.

Hope to see ya’ll real soon!

Posted by carolyn em 18:06 Comments (0)

Fond Farewell to BC

February in Vancouver

The Olympic Games lured us to Vancouver for a month and sure enough the magic and spirit of the games captivated us right from the start. There was the passing of the Olympic torch relay the first week, in Horseshoe Bay at 7:00 am, still pitch dark yet an enthusiastic crowd of people had assembled to cheer the small musical parade of marchers, the fancy decorated floats and to witness the glowing flame of the torch proudly held by a local hero.

Shortly after we were unexpectedly invited to a surprise house party for one of these local heroes who had the privilege of carrying the Olympic torch but also held a significant role with the Vancouver Olympic Committee. Ken Bagshaw’s first-hand account about his contribution to the games only heightened our fascination with this international happening.

On a daily basis, Allen took the bus and trotted off to his volunteer job in his bright aqua “Smerf Suit” the nick-name attached to the volunteers and each day returned home with a small trinket as a token of thanks for his efforts! There was the stainless coffee thermos, cold-fx capsules, gum, note pads and oodles of lapel pins that collectors actually trade.

There were the tickets to view the Preview Ceremonies of the Opening Games, the only difference being the athletes themselves were replaced by volunteers to walk around the arena. Seeing live and being at an Olympic performance was itself a very unique opportunity and of course we all know these Opening Ceremonies were a tremendously creative display of Canadian talent.

My sister and I had tickets to the Women’s Hockey between Norway and Switzerland and I confess that because of the fast-paced and tie- breaking game that went into overtime I am now a newly minted convert to the game of hockey. I had no idea the crowds in the audience would be almost as entertaining, with the patriotic face-paint , national flag-waving and the musical jolts of energy to pump up the spectators were just as fascinating as the game itself.

Along with attending these events we also enjoyed being swept in the tide of celebration with the throngs of visitors and locals who crowded the core of the city to lend their support to the games. Several countries and our own provinces hosted pavilions for guests to sample food, drink and entertainment. Many streets were cordoned off for pedestrians and it seemed that with each passing day along with the bright sunny skies enticed thousands into the heart of the city to revel in the festivities.

One evening we went to the Victory Ceremonies at BC Place and enjoyed watching that day’s winners receive their medals and enjoy the entertainment hosted by Manitoba which included almost two hours of Burton Cummings singing all his great hits from The Guess Who days.

Allen and Bill (my brother-in-law) went to the Men’s Hockey, again Norway vs. Switzerland and were really impressed with Norway’s performance considering it was the first time this hockey team played in the Olympics.

We could not have imagined for one moment that our time in Vancouver could have been so memorable. Living as guests in my sister’s home for some 30 days could have been a huge strain for any family, yet our visit proved otherwise and found the day we left that our farewells were tinged with a heartfelt sadness. All those great dinners either at home or at ethnic restaurants, evenings watching the games, the fun my sister and I had when we escaped to Los Vegas together for a few days and mostly spending treasured time with family reminded us of our gratitude for this opportunity to be with our loved ones. As the Games ended so did our stay in Vancouver and while we may not be leaving with Olympic medals, our souvenirs of these Olympic Games are ones we proudly cherish.

Yes, I am here too (Allen - have you forgotten) but since Carolyn has a great way of telling a story it is better if she does it. My job involved working at the help desk in the main Media Center for print journalists and photographers. I had visions of working all the press conferences and meeting athletes but all I did was hand out backpacks with goodies for the journalists. After that I waited at the front desk to answer questions. Most of the other volunteers also thought like me so we were all a bit let down. I did get a nice jacket and watch. I went to a press conference one night and noticed that the volunteers there all happened to be young good looking women not balding 59 year olds!!!! But as Carolyn said the atmosphere for the 2 weeks was great and I got to know Vancouver quite well. It was so nice to spend that time with Leighan, Bill, Laura and Daniel. Those of you that know me will know that every once in a while I have a habit of saying lots but they were very gracious and never let it bother them!!! We spent 2 days in Portland and now we are in San Francisco for 4 days and loving it. It is the beginning of our US trip and this hotel has free wine every night at 5:30-God Bless America!!! Cioa Allen

Posted by carolyn em 22:47 Comments (2)

Anchored in West Van

Just Days Away till the Games Begin

After our relaxing stay at the Ainsworth Hot Spring Resort and enjoying our daily swim in the mineral waters we knew our state of well-being had improved sufficiently to meet the challenges of the Okanagan Wine Valley. The demands of wine tasting required much concentration and after selecting the vineyards to visit we earnestly began in Osoyoos, an area that boasts over l4 estate wineries. We visited Nk'Mip Cellars, the first aboriginally owned winery in North America.

It is located high above Osoyoos, on a desert landscape and the buildings are exquisitely designed to reflect the beauty of the Arizona-like terrain. Our timing was a little off, with closing at 5:00 pm only twenty minutes away. I was so intrigued with story of the creation of this winery that Allen was left entirely on his own to do the tastings, while I read about its incredible evolution.

We paced ourselves better in Penticton, where we checked into the Penticton Hotel Casino situated in the heart of town on the edge Okanagan Lake. The view from our room's balcony was spectacular, with its panoramic views of the mountains surrounding the lake below. We enjoyed dining at the restaurant, a few steps from the Hotel surrounded by the Lake on all sides and glass walls to invite the majestic views inward. We side-stepped the Casino in favour of betting on the best value of wine purchases from our favorite vineyards, including my long-time favorite, Mission Hill Estate Winery. Honestly after visiting three wineries and giving each one our devoted attention we simply were too exhausted to muster another tasting. Besides our car was quickly filling up with wine bottles designated for Vancouver to be shared with my sister and hubby who also enjoy BC wines, or more precisely have never been known to reject any wine!

Our final lap of the trip was through the beautiful town of Rossland and a scenic southern route across the Rockies rather than on the Trans-Canada. That was the last time we actually witnessed a genuine winter scene. The town is nestled in the mountains and is the home of Nancy Greene, one of the few Canadian Olympic athletes I fondly remember and now is an Ottawa Senator, not with the NHL! We definitely want to return to ski the slopes of the Red Mountain Ski Resort, where the atmosphere is quaint and very idylic. The sun was shining brightly and if we had our skis with us, we would not have been able to drive away quite so easily.

A week has slipped by already since we arrived in Vancouver and bunked in with my sister's family who have been so good to us, making our visit extra special. On Sunday we drove up to Whistler for the afternoon, just to enjoy the village before the Olympics prevents us from being there without a security pass. Although it was a rather drizzly gray day, with a low lying fog that blocked any sighting of the actual slopes we had fun wandering about hearing all the languages being spoken from the influx of international visitors and enjoying a bistro lunch where we could people-watch as we sipped a little BC vino.

Back to the reason this trip has transpired; because Allen is an official Olympic Volunteer! On Monday he began training in his new bright aqua uniform at Canada Place, where the Iconic Sails of the city are located. All the volunteers are wearing the most brilliant turquoise attire imaginable; fortunately he's not alone and blends in with the sea of blue clad volunteers.

I've been adapting well to my new home. With the household gone during the day I am free to go to regular yoga classes near by at Glen Eagle Community Centre or sometimes travel down Marine Drive to the stunningly designed West Van Acqua Centre for fitness classes or doing lapses in the 25 meter chlorine-free pool. Then I return home to take Allie, my sister's golden lab-collie for a walk down to the beach. The roads in this community are all quite steep and the homes hidden by the heavily treed area so, Allie takes the lead at the intersections and shows me the way to the beach. I just instinctively trust she knows exactly where she intends to go.

The pressure is on for me, Oprah is about to begin, I am writing this blog and I want to have the spaghetti simmering before the family returns home for dinner. The sun broke through the clouds today for the first time and it cast such a beautiful glow on this incredibly gorgeous setting. Yes the crocuses are protruding through the soil, the forsythia bushes are in bloom and there's no snow on the ground at Whistler. I'm told there is snow on the slopes, but if you can't see beyond the fog, you just have to believe. As we are constantly reminded by the CTV Olympic commercial, "Do You Believe?"

Posted by carolyn em 15:33 Comments (1)

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Farewell to Snow Squalls and Solitude on the Prairies

Hello Majestic BC Mountains

Our dear relatives in Winnipeg gave us the gift of welcoming us and offering up the "Friendly Manitoba" warmth to send us on our way into the reported weather warnings looming in the region.

The Trans-Canada Highway is a lonely road in the middle of January and combined with the bleakness of blowing snow, the hours upon hours of nothing but open, barren prairies stretching into the sky, made it impossible to distinguish the two. The weather reports must have frightened all living creatures, because we were the only ones on the highway. We did enjoy searching for CBC radio stations, playing our Ipod when there was no reception. On occasion we'd pick up a country and western station, only to rejoice in knowing we weren't entirely isolated.

We were always a day or two ahead of the actually road closures because of the blinding winter storms. We got to Moose Jaw late in the day, but discovered days are longer in the west this time of year and were able to enjoy Al Capone's Canadian outpost, known as "Little Chicago". Today the city liquor store is located in the original train station, a rather impressive looking building, with the grandness of a former era. Can't say we sampled any illicit booze, but rather enjoyed a glass of California Chardonnay with our feta and spinach pizza. Interesting too was the local stage theatre was hosting a fund-raiser for Haiti, with local performers. No matter where, Canadians were pitching in to raise money.

The beginning of the blizzard was all but upon us so Allen was determined get on the road before things forced us to hunker down. We had to dig out the car in the morning, but fortunately, it wasn't bitterly cold. We drove into Swift Current looking for an outdoor rink, but the town was completely snowed in, and it was next to impossible to manouver on the streets, not a soul seemed to be around. Allen was ever hopeful to find a rink in Saskatchewan before crossing into Alberta. The map indicated a tiny place called Maple Creek just east of the border, so we detoured somewhat to find the town, in the hopes we'd find a rink. We saw a curling rink with at least eight cars parked there, more than we'd seen anywhere, in the past couple of days on the highway.

A fellow stepping out of his enormous half-ton truck told Allen there is a rink in town beside the museum! Cautiously we made our way down a few blocks, through the unplowed streets to the small museum, a converted Church and found beside it a little snow-covered rink. There was a sign beside it with the perilous words, "Skate at your own Risk". It was bitterly cold that afternoon, yet Allen laced up his skates, and bravely skated on the rink and I managed to step out of the warm car to capture the moment on video and digital cameras.

Next it was Alberta driving to Medicine Hat, a really modern city, with a downtown and a small suburb with a mall and a movie theatre. We got there early Sunday evening and sat in the mall with the Globe in hand awaiting the start of the movie at 7:00pm. However the security guard came along and escorted us out of the mall into the movie theatre lobby, because it was about to close for the evening. Poor guy couldn't figure out why on earth we'd be sitting reading the paper, as though we were in a hotel lobby. He asked if we were lost, or might be waiting for someone.

Sadly Allen was unable to find a rink in Alberta. We drove to Lethbridge, but folks there told us we were out of luck and we hoped Pincher Creek, last town before BC would pull through, but again no luck. If we were on a mission to find Tim Horton's in remote places we'd not be disappointed.

On Sunday, we drove through the Crow's Nest Pass to Fernie, B.C. where we spent our first night in this province. Such a beautiful village, surrounded by snow peaked mountains, a town of interesting and historical buildings. The sun had finally brightened the skies and we began to feel invigorated that we'd finally reached our destination. To set things right, Allen discovered an outdoor rink, an iced over basketball court, with the hoops standing at either end. Before leaving town Allen got to skate on a basketball court, now that is original.

We are madly in love with the Nelson and Kootenay Mountains. We are staying at the Ainsworth Hot Springs Hotel just 45 minutes from Nelson. Driving through Nelson, we realized it has so much character and interesting architecture, so we hope to take a walking tour tomorrow. We've been enjoying the swims in the hot mineral waters, languishing endlessly while savouring the majestic Purcell mountain range from the pool and the spectacular beauty of the Kootenay Lake surrounding it.

The view from our room of the lake and stunning snow peaked mountains reminds me of Switzerland. All those days in the car have vanished and we now feel replenished and ready to experience more of this gorgeous province. Tomorrow we are off to the Okanagan Valley. Minor changes include the disposal of winter boots to the trunk and the wearing of shoes again, signs of spring here in B.C.

Posted by carolyn em 14:40 Comments (6)

Surfaced in Winnipeg

Off the highway for a day

Monday morning when we left home, Ottawa is a vague memory already. I am still in a state of disbelief that travelling steadily all day long Monday, Tuesday eight or nine hours at a stretch plus the better part of Wednesday to get out of Ontario.

Here we are in Mennonite country in downtown Steinback, a very modern, attractive and thriving city. It feels great to be out of the car, stretching and moving freely till we head off again tomorrow. Already we have connected with cousins over dinner last night and will be spending more time with family today.

Allen has kept up his goal of skating wherever he finds a rink. Skating on the Rideau River before leaving home Monday morning was to set the stage of this adventure. In Saute Ste. Marie, where we stopped the first night he came across "The Esposito" rink that really triggered his enthusiasm, knowing it was named after the famous NHL brothers, Phil and Tony. Sadly the ragged appearance of the rink probably reflects pretty much how the brothers are looking today.

Today the Assiniboine River at the Forks in the heart of Winnipeg which now holds the Guiness Book of Records longest rink in the world, is where Allen will skate this afternoon. Surprisingly Winnipeg in January this year is mild, and people in the winter sports business are scrambling for snow to build up trails!

Can't sit any longer, gotta get up, cause tomorrow it's another day of being strapped in the car!

Posted by carolyn em 07:35 Comments (1)

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