Northward Bound
Crossing America from West to East
16.04.2010
Before my eyes is a wide-angle view of the Atlantic, encompassing the entire view from our balcony on the Outer Banks off the coast of North Carolina. We have settled in here for a few days before we complete the final portion of our road trip back home to Ottawa.
We have walked the shores of the Pacific Ocean at Santa Monica Beach, followed the panoramic coastal drive from San Francisco along the Big Sur route to Los Angeles and enjoyed visiting the towns of Monterey and Santa Barbara along the way. We saw the Walk of Stars, stood inside the Kodak Theatre where the Oscars had taken place just a week earlier and after three days of sight-seeing we left the Hotel California (not as I had imagined although uniquely charming) heading eastward for the first time since we began our the trip!
Eastward bound, we drove into the desert of California to Palm Springs, a stunningly beautiful resort town quite popular with Canadians from the west coast, and where the celebrities of the 40s first made famous. We were fascinated with the barren, arid terrain of the region and enjoyed a day hike in the sweltering heat, up Indian Canyon with its hidden water-fall. This area still manages to grow the largest and sweetest dates in the country – the packages we bought have long disappeared!
We visited antiquities in the dessert of New Mexico, including a sacred Indian site for 800 years then a Spanish mission rebuilt it in 1598, The San Miguel Mission. Never imagined Santa Fe would be so impressively stunning with its unique adobe architecture, leaving an ever-lasting impression for its visitors. In Santa Fe I made my first observation to Allen that it was a place I would love to live.
Then we drove for hours across the Panhandle of Texas, a very desolate experience devoid of life. I often would think and not comprehend how the early settlers managed to surmount these harsh desert conditions. Once we reached the Hill Country of Texas, greenery rolling countryside, vineyards with rivers and lakes appeared. Enjoyed our time in the German settled community of Fredericksberg, where people from Austin and Dallas come to escape the crowds. I am discovering these smaller towns come with the best antique shops that reveal so much about life in earlier times.
We spent three days in Austin, the state capitol and were completely in awe of the Capitol buildings, with its underground wings, and the freedom to roam the floors of power without any security check in today’s world! Austin is a very upbeat, musical city full of quirky, vintage shops and restaurants. Enjoyed a night at the historic Continental Club, where nothing has changes since the 1920s, rickety but oozing with great blues talent. I recall making the same comment, that Austin is a city I’d like to live in too.
Next we drove to another exceptionally beautiful city, San Antonio with its gorgeous River Walk, looks more like our canal in width although hotels, restaurants, shops and cafes line both sides of the promenade. The River Walk is beautifully designed with all its foliage and artistic landscaping as a backdrop. Dining at one of these spots I couldn’t stop myself from thinking of how wonderful it would be to live here!
We then drove to Corpus Christi and stayed in the small beach town of Aransas on the Gulf of Mexico, where the beach is so wide that cars can drive slowly along the shore without affecting the crowds on the beach.
The drive along the coast-line to Louisiana was another 8 hours of steady driving to reach Lafayette. We found a Cajun Restaurant and enjoyed a shrimp Creole dish with the added pleasure of watching the diners up dancing to the Cajun music. Fascinating to visit the museum of the Acadian settlers and to see the French influence in the culture and architecture still gracing the city. We were learning so much about the African slaves, the French and European influences on the music, food and agriculture. The slaves even brought cotton seeds and red pepper seeds hidden in their hair and today these items are a mainstay in our lives. Visiting the Tabasco Hot Pepper Sauce Factory we discovered the true origins of red peppers!
We visited a few plantations along the way, The Nottaway, a typical Gone with the Wind style and now used as a B & B. We enjoyed the less opulent Creole Plantation for its colourful look and the fact it was successfully owned and operated by French women – women were still possessions of men except under French rule.
Our introduction to New Orleans was on Good Friday and one we shall remember vividly. We discovered the City was alive and filled with tourists. Its famous Bourbon Street that evening was brimming with music, crowds of tourists taking in the action with jazz musicians playing on the streets, live concerts pouring out of every club and bar, more typical of a New Year’s Eve celebration!
Fortunately the hotel was in the heart of the French Quarter where we walked endlessly soaking up its beautiful architecture, culture and history. We saw a wedding procession on the street with a long brass marching band leading them along! We lined up to get into “Preservation Hall” for a fabulous jazz performance and one night we went to Fritzel’s for an evening of boisterous ragtime and dixiland jazz.
In Mississippi we began our civil rights history trail starting at the only Black History Museum in the tiny home of it founder who returned to her home town of Donaldsonville to learn about her past and about the history of the slaves. Next in the tiny village of Philadelphia we saw the Church where three civil rights activists in 1964 had been killed for helping Blacks to register to vote.
In Selma, Alabama we walked across the Edmund Pettus Bridge, where on Bloody Sunday in March 1965 law enforcement officers attacked 500 marchers with tear gas and clubs who were protesting the lynching of young blacks, the burning of their churches and for the right to vote. We then visited the Rosa Parks Museum with the very bus Rosa sat on when she was arrested, the Civil Rights Memorial Center and Martin Luther King’s Dexter Church in Montgomery, Alabama.
Then it was a 5 hour drive to Savannah Georgia for a few days. It is everything the tourist books say and is a shining example of having city planners with vision back in the early 1800s. There are some 24 city squares of gardens and monuments in the historical quarter creating a streetcape of magnificent scenery with the majestic homes showcasing these small parks throughout the core of the city.
Charleston, South Carolina, just an hour’s drive north of Savannah is a most impressive and beautiful city where we enjoyed walking in the Battery area on the shores of the Atlantic where miles of magnificent residences line the city streets. Again I am thinking of how wonderful it would be to live here! Really enjoy taking tours of these grand old residences, some even had ball rooms to properly entertain their guests!
We are now reaching the last lap of our trip, by resting at a lovely hotel on an island off the coast of North Carolina. Our last official visit was to the Wright Brothers Museum. In 1903 the Wright Brothers launched the world’s first flying machine here on the Outer Banks.
After exploring the southern states the way we have I can honestly say that the people have been so hospitable and their charm, so endearing. The great cities of the South have been so appealing, that while I may be born a northern from Canada a part of me will always melt at any mention of these southern destinations.
Hope to see ya’ll real soon!
Posted by carolyn em 18:06 Comments (0)

